Santiago de Compostela 1 June 2015

Our last day in Santiago and we will walk around this beautiful city, admire the buildings, linger a little by the Cathedral and hope to catch people we met along the Way as they come in, wonder at the beggars plentiful in the busy walk ways, and still have our pilgrimage to make sense of. We have been awed by beautiful architecture, monasteries, castles and cathedrals, feats of creative man built in the 11th Century, 12th ... you name it, but I have no memory for who's works and how old. I at times feel we rushed through our walk and the history lesson. But what follows then are the memories we didn't rush, the awe of creation by a Master Creator ... the tenacity of huge black beetles slowly picking their way across a pebbly path, an enormous 800 year old chestnut tree, the height and width of old oak trees or not so old gum, lazy cows in a green, green pasture, trees red with glistening cherries, the many mixtures that can make up a dog, the colour of blue skies, the bright red of a single poppy, the five different hues of purple wild flowers, rushing rivers, the folds and height of endless mountain ranges, frost on a silken web early in the morning, the might of the ocean and rocks smoothed over time.
This is what the Lord says: “Stand at the crossroads and look; ask for the ancient paths, ask where the good way is, and walk in it, and you will find rest for your souls. Jeremiah 6:16

Day 32: Muxia

Muxia is a small fishing village along the Costa da Morte, the Coast of Death. So named for the many shipwrecks along this dangerous coast line. Fisterra and Muxia are an epilogue to The Way of St James and although not long enough to get a Compostela still warrant a certificate of completion. This is a much smaller town than Fisterre, and a walk to the church above the rocks at the end is completion for us (so what if by bus!). Ken finds this to be the emotional, magical finish to our journey. We stay in a beautiful albergue which speaks welcome and peace with beautiful quotes by Spanish poets printed on the walls, historical facts displayed on walls and for us a room that is soul's rest. To explain the photo of the really big rock sculpture above the church, it is a memorial for a shipwreck in 2002 which was a huge environmental disaster for this coastline.

Day 31: Fisterra

Our body clocks betray a wish to relax and sleep in, well that was my wish, so we were up early again. Another kind of joy was to catch a bus today; not a bad decision after we saw the mountainous landscape after we left Santiago. Many pilgrims continue on their journey for another three or four days to reach Fisterra. Catching the bus is also a popular idea it seems! Fisterra was thought to be the end of the world by the Romans, where the land joined the sea, in fact the most western point in Spain. The latter half of the two hour trip was winding around the coast through small towns till we arrived at the end. So nice to be beside the sea, so unlike anything we have seen as yet. These towns must be alive with tourists in the summer, clamouring for a seaside vacation. As I write Ken is in another sort of heaven watching the fish market and the bidding for the catch of the day. Fisterra is predominantly a town supported by the fishing industry; pilgrims and tourists would also add a healthy dash of economic windfall. We have watched the fishing boats come in for the day while walking up to the lighthouse. We felt guilty eating today without walking 20+ kms, so the 3km walk up to the lighthouse afforded us dinner!

Day 30: Pedrouza to Santiago de Compostela 21kms

We arrive. Another super early start before dawn and I mistakenly think we can get into Santiago before noon to attend the Pilgrim's Mass. We have both been emotional in different ways over the last two days. We are done, physically and mentally. And we are thankful. We waited in a long line to get our Compostela, in Latin so I don't know if I am pious enough, and having missed the mass will wait to attend on Sunday when they will swing the enormous Botafumeiro once used to dull the aroma of hundreds of filthy pilgrims! Although a Pilgrim's Mass is held every day they don't always swing the Botafumeiro as in days gone by. It was a real joy to come across a girl who we have walked with, or rather seen along the way, since we started in Pamplona. That made our day as we haven't seen familiar faces for awhile. Later we saw a Kiwi girl and four Germans we have constantly seen along the way.

“It is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.” ― Ernest Hemingway

Day 29: Arzua to Pedrouza 19.4kms

“But the beauty is in the walking -- we are betrayed by destinations.” ― Gwyn Thomas A shorter day but oh so tiring. We arrive early, another town built on the side of a mountain. Gum trees as far as the eye can see. Forest floors softened with gum leaves reminding us of home and loved ones, wherever they are living, as if they had ever left our thoughts.

Day 28: Palas de Rei to Arzua 30kms

A long day and an early start this morning afforded us peace and quiet for much of our day. A noticeable difference from yesterday as there was the constant hum of people chatting, behind and then in front! Amazed. Again. The huge gum trees reaching higher than any pine or oak, plantation after plantation. Beautiful. Today I was thinking roller coasters, which I don't like ... up, down, up, down. But all drudgery is negated walking through the forests.

Day 27: Portomarin to Palas de Rei 26.8kms

Our first few kilometres out of Portomarin passed quickly as we met some people from Canberra; it is interesting to hear others stories and how they came to be on the Camino. Most conversations are shortish as most people are just passing us. I will add here, everyone passes me, therefore us. Everyone. When I was talking about familiar and unfamiliar faces I should maybe have said, butts! There's no winning here, but slow and steady should get us to Santiago. We were surprised to see the first of the familiar eucalypt today, plantations, in the sun the warmth bringing out the beautiful scent that for anyone who has been away, means home. We found out today that the strange built up "houses" found in every yard and peculiar to Galicia, are in fact small granaries. Where grain, usually corn used to be kept to dry, and kept clear of vermin. Not used so much now as indeed most practices change with progress.